oh just click here and you'll get to the blog. i can't be bothered to figure out how to skip this step.
Project Mini-Blogs
THE CONCRETE LAMP
We knew there was a concrete lamp in us, but to make the lamp we
wanted, there were two big challenges we had to overcome.First, we wanted to integrate the lighting
into the concrete; we did not want to simply make a concrete shape and stick a
light bulb on top of it.Second, we had
to control its weight; we wanted a healthy size but we did not want an anvil that would crush a night table.With this prototype, we made good progress
toward both goals.
In keeping with our re-use model, we started with a 2-gallon water jug
as our casting mold.Tipped on its end,
it has good height, and we loved its rippled and knobby shape.We cast in a recessed pine base cut from
discarded shelving.Pine has a nice
color affinity with the concrete and provides a forgiving table-contact surface.
Inspired by a lamp we saw at the ICFF in 2009, I had been thinking
about showing off a handsome cord inside a glass vessel as part of this
lamp.I had a light-set for a pendant lamp
that I had been thinking about for a while, and this seemed like a good
application.I figured that casting a
glass vessel into the lamp would create the nice effect of allowing you to follow the glass and the electrical cord down
into the concrete.The Mason jar proved
the perfect size for this purpose, after I cut a hole in its lid to hold the
light socket securely.To give the jar
a place to perch, and to create a hollow core to reduce the overall weight of the lamp, I secured an
empty half-gallon plastic jug to the pine base.I
drilled a hole through the bottom of the Mason jar, and another through the lid of the jug,
and then threaded a length of polyurethane tubing through the wall of the water
tank, through the side of the jug, and up to the lid.To emphasize the lightness of the project, I
drilled and threaded the tubing through the core a few more times.
Then came the concrete.After some trial and error, I mixed
up a recipe that substituted perlite for a good portion of the sand that I
would normally use, but kept the proportion of cement high.This resulted in a very light weight concrete given the
size of the piece, while still achieving a silky smooth surface.After the pouring, curing, grinding and
polishing, I cut off the tubing flush with the exterior wall of the lamp, threaded
the cord through the jar and through the tunnel created by the tubing,
installed a new plug, and voila! For now!
A Steaming Pile of Trash
A Refined Hunk of Lamp
* * * * *
TYVEK FEELS SO GOOD
We found this chair on the side of the road.It had no seat at all, and a scuzzy brown
upholstered back with crusty foam, and we wanted very much to bring it back to
life.I had been collecting the Tyvek
envelopes I received at work for a few months.I did not have a specific project in mind, but the material is so strong
that I was thinking that furniture covering was a possibility.Besides, it just seemed ridiculous to throw
all this stuff away.
The construction went like
this: I tore off the seat back upholstery so I was left with just the plywood
base;I cut out a seat bottom from
5/8" plywood; I bought a 4"-thick foam block and cut it to fit the
back and seat, duct-taped it down, and wrapped the foam in batting; I then
split the envelopes along their seams, trimmed their ragged edges and laid them
out to form double-layer sheets big enough to cover the cushions, then
scotch-taped the pieces in place, and drew a grid in pencil over the big
sheets; P. then took over and sewed over the pencil grid using a zig-zag stitch
on the sewing machine (a bonus to all the sewing: it created thousands of
perforations so we did not need to make separate air-holes to prevent the
completed cushion from popping); we wrapped the sewed sheets around the
cushions and attached them with a staple gun; finally, we screwed the back
cushion to the frame, laid the seat in place, and voila!A nice looking and thoroughly comfortable
chair, all in one busy Sunday.
The Scavenged Frame
Nice Stitching!
The Finished Product
* * * * *
CONCRETE, MEET CORIAN
This is the story of the first planter in what became an
evolving series, which now includes several varieties of vessels with both
Corian and wood bases.
The idea was to take the concrete planter idea and adapt it
for indoor use.The slice of Corian
underneath the concrete adds a nice color contrast and also protects the shelf
or table surface from scratches from the concrete.
I chose a rectangular plastic container as my mold.For the base, I measured a rectangle that was
slightly smaller than the bottom of the container, cut it out using the
circular saw and a fine-tooth blade, and rounded the edges off with a file and
sanding block.
Then, in order to make the Corian bond to the concrete, I
drilled holes (at slow speed) in each corner of the Corian rectangle,
counter-sunk the holes, and fitted in flat-head bolts.I put nuts half-way down each bolt for the
concrete to grab onto.In later models,
I switched to wing nuts, then abandonedthe bolts for screws (a tighter seal) and used jar lids wired to the
four corner screws as my bonding device.
Next, I prepared the container for the concrete by rubbing a
thin film of 3-in-1 oil (later lithium grease or vaseline) around all of the
edges.To allow the concrete to form a
ledge over the edge of the Corian base, I filled in the gap between the base
and the sides of the container with silicone caulk, and let it dry overnight.On later efforts, I rubbed a candle on the
edge of the Corian before applying the caulk, which helped in the removal
process, but still allowed the caulk to cure.
For this first project, I used pre-mixed, general purpose
concrete, but filtered out the large pieces of gravel from the mix.In subsequent projects, I made my own mixes
from Portland cement, sand, and various other ingredients.
Before pouring the concrete, I selected a small plastic tub
that would make the hole in the top of the planter, and oiled the outside of
this tub and set up a piece of wood on two paint cans over my pouring area that
would hold the plastic tub at the desired height during the curing
process.Then, I poured the concrete nearly
to the top of the main container, sunk in the inner tub, filled the main
container to the top, leveled the surface of the concrete with a paint stirrer,
and set the container under the wood and paint can set-up.
I let the concrete cure for two days then removed the
plastic containers. The inner tub came
out pretty smoothly, but I had to cut the main container apart with a
knife.I then peeled the caulk of the
edge of the Corian and rubbed the remaining bits off, using sandpaper for a few
stubborn ones.Finally, I cut the inner
plastic tub down to that it sat down just under the surface of the
planter.P. said she liked the natural
surface of the concrete, so I left this one rough, but later versions have
looked quite nice and smooth.We added a
fern and now look how nice!
The First of Many
* * * * *
SO I BOUGHT A CORIAN COUNTERTOP
I had done some researching on where to buy sheets of hard
plastic materials -- acrylic, polypropylene, HDPE, that kind of thing.I thought there would be some good project
potential with this kind of stuff, either furniture (in particular I was
thinking about a table top made of the same material as a cutting board we got
from Ikea) or something else.Unfortunately, the hardware and home improvement stores did not seem to
stock it, and all the vendors I found wanted over a hundred dollars for slabs
more than 2 feet long.That was too much
for experimentation.
Then, on a scrounging trip to the Habitat for Humanity
Re-Store, I found the solution.They
were selling second-hand kitchen and bath countertops, those with the sink and
faucet holes already cut out, for cheap.After sorting though the many laminate versions, I found a 6-foot long
bathroom countertop made of Corian for $25.It probably weighed 80 pounds, and I had to borrow a hand saw from the
Re-Store to cut the thing in half to fit it into the mighty Corolla, but I got
it home.
I started experimenting in the Minoralterations workshop and
learned some important facts about Corian.First, it is brittle, so watch those corners while you are cutting, wear
your safety goggles and do not drop your piece -- it will crack or
shatter.Second, when you cut or drill
Corian, it "off-gasses," meaning it releases a terrible chemical
odor.I managed to stink up the entire
house with just a few cuts, and I became concerned about the toxicity and
flammability of the fumes being released.I now make sure to wear my respirator when I work with the stuff (also
good when sanding this super-dense material) and do as much cutting as possible
outside.
I learned a few things about cutting and drilling, as
well.First, for straight cuts, my
circular saw installed with a fine-tooth blade worked pretty well, but it did
start to melt and slow the blade if I pushed too hard.A new jig saw helped a lot, and a
soon-to-arrive carbide blade should made cutting even easier.
For drilling, I read a tip on-line that made a big
difference: slow down the speed of your drill.Before I read this tip, I had my drill-press set up at a high speed for
wood and metal.When I drilled into the
Corian at high speed, it quickly melted and jammed the bit.I am lucky I did not burn out the motor.However, when I slowed the motor down to its
lowest speed, the drill sailed through the Corian like butter.